Menya Tsukumo

Crafted with 100% Hokkaido wheat, the homemade medium-thick, hand-kneaded noodles at Menya Tsukumo arrive thoroughly coated in a dedicated black sesame sauce. Tucked into the basement of a building in Ueno 2-chome, this Sunday-lunch pop-up operates out of a 8-seat bar counter, dedicating its brief weekly window to brothless noodle dishes. The curly strands carry a distinct, bouncy chew, holding on tightly to the house-made black sesame paste so that each bite delivers concentrated, layered depth. Swirling in a bit of black vinegar midway through cuts the sesame's richness with a mild, rounded tang, keeping the bowl refreshing straight to the bottom.

When you want an extra kick of spice, the summer-limited Curry Black Sesame Soup-less Tantanmen enters the conversation. Savory minced-meat keema crafted specifically for tantanmen meets aromatic black sesame sauce over the thick noodles, delivering deep aromatics without overwhelming heat. Melting cheese can be layered on top, and adding plain rice or a mini condiment rice gives you the perfect vehicle to sweep up every drop of spiced meat sauce. The kitchen also turns out abura soba bound with house-rendered dried-sardine niboshi oil and Kumamoto soy sauce, alongside an array of customizable toppings including soft-boiled onsen eggs, fresh coriander, and extra spiced meat.

With seating tightly constrained, checking the Sunday schedule and arrival guidelines on the shop's official social media before heading out makes for a smooth visit. Pull up a stool at the understated bar counter, order a beer or soft drink, and settle in for an unhurried bowl of carefully made noodles.